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Day 21  - October 11, 2014

10/12/2014

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What a night! I spent my last night in Dehli. After arriving by plane from Leh, I ended up staying in my hotel room the whole time. The past few weeks in Leh were great but very tiring due to being sick and the altitude. I had a chance to catch up on emails, watch a bit of tv and eat a small, Pizza Hut pizza! Mmmmm was that yummy. The hotel staff is very nice but many strange things kept happening. Men kept coming to the door asking if the air conditioner was working (happened 3 times) and then later if I had hot water. I kept saying if I have a problem, I would call the reception all the while having my huge suitcase blocking entry into the room.

I had a nice chat with my husband later in the evening and then I couldn’t keep my eyes open any longer and wanted to sleep BUT I kept a light on and totally blocked the door with the suitcase which ended up being a smart move. In the middle of the night I was awoken by the sound of loud pounding on a door directly outside of mine. Men were trying to get into another room! Not sure what the situation was, perhaps they had been out partying and were a bit tipsy and another person locked them out. I didn’t want to go out and check it out. Unfortunately the air conditioner didn’t work too well so the room was fairly hot most of the time but it meant that it wasn’t necessary to sleep with a blanket on AND I had no cockroaches as visitors (as of yet).  The air conditioner from time to time had to make itself known by making crashing sounds like it was going to totally break down or explode but for some reason it kept going.

Now to take a cold shower (yes the hot water ISN’T working) but that will cool me off a bit, then get dressed and ready and go find the breakfast room but before that, somehow locking up or hiding valuables. There is a hotel safe in the closet (they showed me the closet but there are no hangers to hang my coat so I’m not using it… Ah India….

Time to take one more chemical shower….

Now I’m at the Dehli airport waiting for boarding. It’s a nice airport having been revamped about 4 years ago for a nice sum of $ 2.5 billion (I believe) but the toilets have seen better days already. Again, I’m amazed at the security and the seriousness which they  show when checking papers, etc. I guess that’s good in a way. I was prepared though to go through the security xray and body check correctly this time, which I did. The flight to Leh prepared me well for that. So now it’s just wait to board! I’m going to miss my strange experiences here but I’m also looking forward to going back to Germany, to my husband, who I miss tons, and to my life although I know already that this three weeks in India has changed me in some way. Can’t wait to see how. Below is a photo of just a little figure you can see at the Delhi Airport!

Thanks for following!

For tours in Kashmir / Ladakh please visit this site:  http://www.kashmir-ladakh-tourism.com/blog/   


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Day 20   - October 10, 2014

10/12/2014

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It’s now 2 a.m. and I’m still not in bed. I got back late tonight after being out all day with a group from the hotel in the same area as a few days ago. Then we had a sort of run-in with a drunken local that took a bit of time to calm him down. I really need to get to bed so I can get up at 5:15 to get ready then pack up my air mattress and other stuff, have breakfast and then be picked up at 9 by the taxi to head to Leh Airport. I enjoyed my last breakfast at the Snowview Hideaway. A cheese omelete with toast and the yummy apricot jam and fresh mint tea.

The flight from Leh to Delhi was GREAT! Flying over the mountains and glacier was so breathtaking...

More later...

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Day 19  - October 9, 2014

10/12/2014

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Today is my last day in Ladahk (Leh). I have to take a flight back to Delhi tomorrow because the hotel owner here (the Snow View Hideaway), said it can be risky to book a flight back to Delhi on the same day I have to fly back to Germany because often flights are cancelled at the last minute due to weather or problems with the aircraft. Well, I don’t think we will have any weather problems cause it’s been BEAUTIFUL everyday since I’ve been here the past few weeks. It is chilly in the mornings (like in the Fall) and cold at night. I still can’t get over the light here. There is a special sort of light here that I’ve never seen anywhere else.

What will I miss when I leave here?  The sun (although it can be quite overwhelmingly hot), the light, the mountains, the kind people I’ve met, the yummy homemade Siachan Apricot Jam, the sound of the tall trees blowing in the breeze, the old grandma who walks around the property in the mornings with her prayer beads saying Buddhist prayers, the kind family from the hotel and the other workers who did their best to make my stay comfortable, and all the impressions I’ve made since arriving here on Sept. 27. I’m amazed at how the people here live in comparison to how we live in the West. They don’t have running water, no sanitary facilities. They call their standard toilets the local Ladahki toilet. It’s an oblong hole in the ground in a small room filled with dirt and a shovel. A few I’ve used were hard to stand due to the stench. The one in the place at the higher elevation was actually ok, VERY big and for some reason, no bad smell. I wonder what it’s like below in the place where it all goes… I found out it's called a dry composting system. Here is a blog of a traveler that I found with some photos. Her account is similar to mine. https://myindiaencounters.wordpress.com/tag/ladakhi-toilets/ Also, they don’t seem to have a problem if they are traveling somewhere in a car to just stop on the side of the road, and do their business.  Because it’s so dusty here, they are covered in a coating of dust and the skin of most of the people is very dark, wrinkled and almost like leather. It’s hard to tell their age. The women here all have beautiful, thick, very long hair. I’ve had nothing but dry skin, rashes, dry hair, and nosebleeds since arriving. They say it’s due to the weather but I also think it’s due to the water too. They chemically treat their water here and I guess my skin and hair isn’t used to it. The skin on my hands was looking a bit aged BEFORE I came here and now they look like they are from a 90 year old woman!

Well it’s another beautiful sunny day for a bus trip. Let’s see where I end up today. I heard it’s near the same area where I’ve been before. That’s fine. I just want to hang around here today and take in the sights and sounds before I leave tomorrow morning for Delhi. I will be staying in a hotel in Delhi called the Rockwell Plaza at Karol Bagh and then leaving in the early afternoon on the 11th to fly back to Frankfurt. Wow! The three weeks have flown past!

More later…

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Day 17  & 18 - October 7 & 8, 2014

10/12/2014

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Both days were very busy taking a trip again to the higher altitude of 4-4,500 meters. I was back in the same area as before with various people from the hotel. The countryside is very rocky, dusty and sort of like being on the moon. In the distance you can see the higher mountains with snow. I’m not sure how far away they are though. These past few days I had the pleasure of herding cows, donkeys and keeping dogs under control. They have so many animals that run free here you are often surprised by them. At night it can be pretty freaky cause you might be standing outside having a cup of yak tea and then suddenly you turn around and a big yak or cow is standing next to you. They don’t go away unless you make a sound and shake a stick at them and then they move on. In the distance you can always hear packs of wild dogs at night. That’s VERY freaky cause they sound like they are killing each other. During the day they seem rather docile, sleepy and tired but at night it’s like they transform into monsters in a Steven King film. The Ladahki dogs are much bigger and have longer hair then the ones in Delhi. I’m told the reason for this is the Ladahki’s feed them more and they need the long hair for the harsh winters which can get to -28 degrees Celsius sometimes. I'm not really sure about the part about the Ladakhi's feeding them though. I only saw dogs picking trough trash and rubbish.... Cows and donkey's too!

More later…

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Day 16  - October 6, 2014

10/12/2014

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Today I took a bus trip about 45 minutes away from the hotel to 4,000 – 4,500 meters (about 13,000 feet. I think it’s called Mota (pronounced Mosha). I felt the higher altitude again but it wasn’t as bad as when I first arrived in Ladakh/Leh back on Sept. 27. (If you want to read some interesting info about Ladakh, please go here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladakh . This was the first time I had Yak butter tea. I was a bit skeptical at first but I really liked it! It’s buttery in taste but not too heavy and for some reason they mix it with salt. The first cup I had was better because it was the last in the pot and it wasn’t so salty but the second one was fresh and just a bit too salty. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butter_tea The people live in interesting mud houses with a sort of grass on the roof. Inside it’s very dusty and dirty because the floor in the hall is also made of hard mud. The living rooms all have carpets down and mattresses covered in carpets. The living room/kitchen was fairly large and was brightly  painted with small windows all around. This family had two sweet dogs and various donkeys  (one was pregnant) and a few yaks and cows. They were very kind to us while we visited. The road to get there was an adventure!  The roads in general are VERY rocky and with lots of holes and it’s always a trip to ride on them. Thank God we had a very experienced driver. Going back to the hotel at night though I experienced my first stand off on the little road that could only handle one car in one direction. The Ladakhi’s though are really calm about these situations. At the stand-off location, the cars coming in our direction eventually started to back up. Then we had to inch ourselves through whatever opening was available to the large bus we were in. It was a hair raising event that gave us a bit to talk about back at the hotel before dinner. The hotel owners were again very accommodating to us foreigners by making us spaghetti with red and white sauce. Mmmmmnnnn yummy. Sometimes it’s nice having a variety from white rice and some sort of Indian dish which is what we usually ate two times a  day. In the market I found some oats, raisens, almonds and honey so they make me porridge every morning which is great cause it’s so cold in the mornings and gives me lots of energy until lunch.

Last night we had sort of a “jam session” after dinner. One Tibetan who lives in Dharamsala was playing guitar and a German guy was playing keyboards. He also had a little portable BOSE speaker I could hook up to my mobile phone where I had a playback of Route 66 from my show and we had sort of a sing-a-long. I also drank some Kingfisher beer. It’s tasty but strong. I was glad to hit my bed but I couldn’t sleep because someplace nearby was having a wedding or festival and there was loud music playing with a lot of bass and even my custom made silicone ear plugs couldn’t block it out.

More later…

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Day 15  -  October 5, 2014

10/12/2014

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I spent the day at the hotel talking with a few Tibetans about traditions etc. One that really surprised me is that when someone dies, they go to a hillside where a Buddhist monk performs a prayer ceremony then another man takes an ax and chops up the body so the vultures can eat it. It’s something called a Sky burial or something like that. Sounds pretty brutal but for them it’s tradition. The body is only a vessel. The spirit will be reincarnated again. For the Tibetans who are in exile in India, when someone dies they follow the Hindi tradition of cremation but one of the guys said that when he was in the 9th grade, a classmate had drowned and the whole class went to the funeral. In India they prepare the body for creation by putting oil and sugar on it but these two Tibetans didn’t know why sugar. Perhaps it helps the body to burn better. But he also told me that they have to break the limbs before the cremation too because if they don’t, during the cremation it looks like the body moves, and it actually does because it’s just a reaction to the heat and burning, so they do this so it stays still. He said the sound was really creepy. And during the cremation, they saw and heard the skull burst. I asked why the students HAD to attend the funeral and he said it reminds you that you are alive and life continues…. If you're interested in reading more about this tradition go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sky_burial  There seems to be a practical side to this too...

In the afternoon on this day I went into the market with Tserin from the hotel because I needed to buy a few things and I wanted to try my luck at the satellite internet café again. This time it worked better AND I didn’t lose my borrowed sunglasses…. I loved some of the things we saw along the way especially in the OLD part of Leh.  A big, old tree fell down across a small street and they just left it there, propped up with some wooden poles...

More later….

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Day 14  - October 4, 2014

10/12/2014

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I decided to stay at the hotel in the morning talking with some guests and then in the afternoon I went into Leh with  Tserin (I would get lost if I went myself). I went to the satellite internet café and also grocery shopping again (for some special things for my cooked oats in the morning etc. and to get some special dinner ingredients cause I was going to show the hotel owners how to cook western style.) Tonight they made barbequed chicken (without a BBQ) mashed potatoes and green beans with almonds. Everything turned out GREAT!

More later...

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Day 13  - October 3, 2014

10/12/2014

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I went to another interesting spot­­­ where the locals had constructed many Stupe along the countryside. While taking some photos  I was greeted by a passing donkey who resembled my favorite character in SHREK. The sun was EXTREME today so I had to resort to extreme protection. Also the dust in the air was a bit much too so had to wear the mask today...

I went back to the hotel in the afternoon and took a walk to the little forest area with the wild dog families. Boy there are so many wild dogs in Ladakh. A special breed of a very solid dog and quite frightening looking but the puppies were very sweet. I was feeding them a little left over toast and they seemed to enjoy it.

Ladakh is such an interesting area so for all you trekking (hiking) freaks out there, take a look http://dreamladakh.com/wild-animal-ladakh.htm

More later...

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Day 12 - October 2, 2014

10/10/2014

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I took a trip to an old monastery/museum on a hill facing a mountain. It’s the same moon landscape I saw when I first arrived here on Sept. 27.  I had my second experience with a Ladakhi outhouse only this one was beyond words or at least the stench was coming out of the hole in the ground. But when you have to go you have to go…. There were some sweet Ladakhi children nearby too.

In the late morning / early afternoon I found my way to a one-lane old, hanging bridge covered in old Tibetan flags on both sides. The bridge was above the bluest-green water I have ever seen. The light breeze made the intense sun a bit more bearable.

Later in the day back near the hotel, I discovered a maze of walkways behind and between houses that went into a small forest. There I was greeted by some sweet wild puppies and a VERY pregnant cow. Unfortunately you shouldn’t touch or handle any wild animals here due to a high chance of rabies.

More later....

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Day 11  -  October 1, 2014

10/10/2014

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I made another trip into Leh today with some other guests in the hotel. We heard there was a German Bakery there and we wanted to find out if it was true. Well actually there were a few places called that but many were closed because the main tourist season was over. We did find one across from the Yack Tail Hotel and it wasn’t really a bakery but a restaurant and they also had some baked goods. Some dark bread, some cinnamon buns and some yummy chocolate donuts. We walked around looking for various things that each of us needed or wanted. I bought a really nice handcrafted bag and a beautiful scarf. Later we did some grocery shopping in the Chospa market  but as we were checking out (it was a major chaos) I somehow forgot my expensive Maui Jim sunglasses there. I’m sure some Ladakhi is VERY happy with their find…

The last thing I bought was a little charm called a Dorjee which means stability. The old lady who wanted to sell it to me was a hard bargainer. Fortunately in our group was a Tibetan guy who got her down a bit in the price and in the end it only cost about 1,50 Euros.

Walking around the mixture of people and faiths is very interesting. Buddhists, Hindis and Islamists as well as some Catholics.

More later....

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Day 10     September 30, 2014

10/10/2014

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I woke up a few times during the night and realized my space heater gave up the ghost. I thought perhaps we had lost power again (they have power normally in the mornings and at night but not during the afternoon) but the light in the bathroom worked so I guess it just broke. It’s good that I’m wearing long underwear under my pj’s and I have the emergency foil blanket under the sheet on my air mattress so it reflects my warm body heat  back to me instead of cold air.

I feel a bit better this morning although the pain in my sinuses is still bad and there is still a lot of infection coming out.. Moving around  is still a bit difficult so I may end up staying in the compound all day again. It doesn’t matter because I’ve had such interesting conversations with the people here. I have a tv but haven’t felt like watching it at all. Also not in Dehli.

So now to get up and shower ( and get the whole bathroom wet again – it seems that having a shower curtain isn’t the norm here so you have to make sure you take out the toilet paper and anything else you don’t want to get wet BEFORE you shower.) You also have to remember to turn on the water heater BEFORE turning on the water too. I had a few chilly surprises… Looking out my window into the parking area I see activity. Some people are leaving in an SUV. I guess it’s time for me to get up too. A new day a new experience in India!

Today I went into Leh with Tserin from the Snow View Hideaway. She wanted to escort me to the ear nose and throat doc and to an internet café. We walked from the hotel to the town passing many interesting places, a farm after they harvested wheat with the Himalayas in the distance. Street dogs are all over the place here too as well as street cows… Then she took me into old Leh. Wow! It’s like out of an Indiana Jones movie! Then we ended up in a big square where a huge mosque was and the road was torn up. She explained it’s part of their beautification program. After looking for an internet café (with satellite) we hit gold on the 4th one.  It was crowded with people on top of people. It took forever to log in and forever to do anything on the system. I had time to read 4 emails and to respond to 3 in 1 hour. After that we headed for the ENT doc at his office. He was supposed to be there by 4. When we got there we were told 4:30 so Tserin offered to make us tea at her house nearby. We walked through a trash dump and there we were! It’s a nice house with traditional rooms like a temple and the living room with all the little tables. Afterwards we headed back to the ENT and the office was packed! I decided I didn’t want to wait for hours to go into his little wooden box with a cloth curtain office. So we left and headed back to the hotel (after hailing a taxi who then wanted to charge us more upon arrival). No chance with a local on my side.

More later…

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Day 9  September 29, 2004

10/10/2014

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Sept. 29, 2014

Well I woke up feeling worse then the day before. I took the last antibiotic but my head felt like it was going to explode. The hotel sent a doctor (not only to look at me but also another guest who was very sick from altitude sickness or some other sort of infection. The people here are so kind! I stayed in the hotel compound the whole day again because of not feeling well. I’m still not adjusted to the height here cause just walking upstairs to my room is very tiring still. I need another day or two. I’ve heard from Michael the owner’s son and Tsering the cousin that there are a few internet café’s in town who have satellite so I can ride in one evening with them to re-connect with the world but we have to wait until the evening because during the day the tourists take over the café’s. Especially now since normal internet is still down in all of Ladakh.

One thing I find totally interesting is the local Ladakh people (like the owners). When you look at the, they resemble people from Peru. They have sort of an Asian/Native Indian look to them. Dark skin and their traditional clothes (that many of the older women wear) also seems similar. The air here is so clean and in the sun, VERY warm (no ozone) but in the shade very cool so dressing appropriately is essential. The light here is also very different than in Germany. I’m told it’s because of the altitude. I can’t wait to be able to get out and take photos!

There were a number of local children here yesterday so that was quite fun trying to interact with them. I was amazed at how good they could understand and speak English! This group was mostly Tibetan but some Ladakhi children too.

I went to bed around 9:30 cause of not feeling very well. Tomorrow will be another sunny day.

More later….

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Day 7 & 8  September 27 & 28, 2014

10/10/2014

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I left Dehli in the normal sweltering heat and humidity. The taxi picked me up at 4 a.m. to make it’s way to the Delhi Airport only to find out that it was the wrong terminal. Then I had to get another taxi to take me the rest of the way. I wanted to go to Leh in the north. I thought well, there is plenty of time to get something to eat after going through security control. WRONG! In India they take this security control VERY seriously. I had to put my things in the plastic bins like in Germany. One guy took off his belt and started to put it in but the guy looked at him strangely. I wasn’t asked to take off my hiking boots though. I was then instructed to go further down the lines to one that said LADIES so I could be body checked. When it was my turn, I had to walk forward to a woman in a little booth with a curtain. Once in there she saw I had my boots on and said I need to take them off and get them scanned again. At first I waited in a line near where the LADIES sign was but then I thought it was better to go back to where all my stuff was that was already scanned. I was also concerned it would disappear. Backpack with passport, money, mobile phone, coat, etc. The man who instructed me to go to the LADIES line screamed at me to go back there. I tried to explain what happened but he didn’t want to hear it so I went back to the other line. As my boots were waiting to get scanned (a process that goes very slowly in India)  I was called into the little booth again to be body searched with the metal detector. I started talking with the woman and she said recently she arrested a man who had a false heel on his shoe and in the empty space was gold. He was a gold smuggler! Finally I got my boots and headed back to the other place where all my stuff was. I found my back pack and a woman asked me if I had any metal in there and I said yes a thermos and cup so she asked me to take it out and the bag had to be scanned again (but she took it and put it through). I finally got everything back and then headed to the Food Court to get some breakfast.

After the security ordeal, I finally headed to the gate to hang out and wait for the flight. The airport is VERY quiet and they don’t announce flights so you have to check from time to time as to the status of YOUR flight and gate. They had nice lounge chairs to lay down on and pass the time. Then it was time to board the plane. It was only about a one hour flight to Leh. After we were served our drink and snack, we saw them! The Himalayas! What a view! First snow capped mountain tops on the middle Himalayas (explained to me by a Nepal guy who works at a monastery excavating old relics.

I arrived at the Leh airport to a welcome of many machine-gun armed soldiers. It is a very small airport and all passengers had to fill out an entry form. The minute I stepped off the plane onto the metal stair case to de-plane, I felt the altitude and was immediately dizzy and seemed to be moving in slow motion. It was difficult to do even the slightest task. Prior to leaving Delhi, a few days before I noticed that I was getting a stuffy nose (no wonder with the sweltering temps and then being in my freezing room with the cockroaches…) so a sinus infection was on the way! It reared it’s ugly head the morning I left so I started taking an antibiotic I had with me.

After being picked up by a taxi to take me to my hotel (the Snow View Hideaway http://www.snowviewladakh.com/ ) l, I was really pleasantly surprised at how QUIET it is here. The air is clean ! There is a nice courtyard and out door places to sit and eat or talk. Lots of nice people staying here too. My room is small but the bathroom is very modern like in western countries. No flooding of the toilet or sink onto the floor. No cockroaches and no mosquitos.  The altitude sickness is a bit difficult but I think I’ve adjusted fairly well. The big problem is the sinus infection. It has hit me VERY hard. I had a fever last night but the owners of the place were kind to bring me a space heater (it got very cold last night and you could see stars and constellations very well.)

I’m hanging out in bed today because the infection has taken over my body with a vengeance. I’m typing this from my bed looking out the window and there is a reflection of the mountains in the other window. They are majestic and covered in snow. The owners are so kind they brought me tea and toast and homemade apricot jam. I feel like I’m in good hands. I hope I’m feeling better tomorrow so I can go out and explore a  bit.

More later…

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Day 6 September 26, 2014    Last   day   in   MT (Delhi)

9/26/2014

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This has been my last day in MT (Majnu Ka Tilla in Delhi). It's interesting how you create your own sort of routine even in such a different place then what you're normally used to. I guess we humans are creatures of habit. We need something to hold onto to give us our balance or center.

I'm still amazed at the poverty here and how hard people have to work and how little they earn.

Yesterday I needed to buy a bag to put some things into to lighten my luggage when I fly to Leh. It's sort of a sport bag from North Face. There were other cheaper bags there too but this one looked like it was made better then the others. It cost 400 Rupees which his about 5,- Euros! The same bag in Germany or the States would cost a lot more then that. Dinner with 5 people at a mid-range restaurant cost 15,- Euros.

Every person and living thing here has a day to day fight with survival and in this sweltering heat and humidity. You are constantly approached and being offered services - I saw the same Indian man the whole week offering ear cleaning. I'm told they are professional ear cleaners... Wow! Even the tiny ants and cockroaches in my room are struggling to survive (but unfortunately, they moved into the wrong room....) Even the numerous street dogs struggle. You seem them laying all over the place, dirty and very tired and worn looking and the females have hanging bellies and nipples from many babies. Sometimes they sniff you to see if you have anything interesting on you but most of the time they are sleeping.

I had a nice surprise while showering this morning. When I looked up I saw sitting outside the window (I had heard something) a little singing bird! It looked something like a Meise (Chickadee or Titmouse in English) and it was singing away in the sunshine! What a nice good morning wake up welcome! he sun has been shining every day since I arrived in Delhi.

I didn't take a picture of the temple today because the monks were praying when I was able to get over to see it. I didn't want to be rude and disturb them. I've taken very few photos since arriving here. The streets are VERY narrow and crowded with people selling things, stands, dogs, people, dirt, etc. I also didn't want to invade anyone's privacy or private sphere. I've seen some tourists not being very considerate when it comes to taking pictures. So I decided to leave the picture taking to my time in LEH! At the Himalayas!
http://www.lehladakhindia.com/photogallery

I won't have any internet while I'm in Leh so no more posts for now but I will make journal notes and take photos when I'm there. I'm curious to see how my body reacts to the altitude.... 3,400 meters
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That's all for a while....
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Day 4 - September 25, 2014

9/25/2014

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Today was another day of getting to know people in the quarter here in MJ. Although I'm in India, I have been in the Tibetan quarter all week and have been learning so much every day from the people here. Each one has a unique story about how they were sent into exile, often as very small children. Their parents wanted them to grow up in a land where they can be free to be Tibetans, where they can speak their own language, practice their Buddhism and show homage to the Dalai Lama. To be whole. It's going to take a while to process all of this. I've been somewhat stunned and amazed at their stories.

On Sept. 27 I will be heading up to  one of the highest cities in the world where humans live... LEH http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leh  in one of the most beautiful regions on earth I'm told! LADAKH! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ladakh 

Once I'm there, I won't have any internet connection due to the severe flooding that has taken place in Kashmir so my posts will follow later.

That's all for now...


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    I'm an actress, singer, speaker but first, I'm a human being interested in people and a lot of other things in our world...

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